Cotton begins its journey from the field as seed cotton, which is then processed through a ginning machine. The resulting fiber, after the seeds have been removed, is referred to as "lint." This lint is compressed into bales and transported to textile mills as a raw material known as "raw cotton." Today, raw cotton is typically categorized into two types—sawtooth cotton and roller cotton—based on the ginning method used.
Sawtooth cotton is produced using a sawtooth ginner. The mechanism involves rotating circular blades with teeth that grip the fibers and pull them away from the seeds. These machines are equipped with rigid rows of spindles that help remove impurities such as diseased or insect-infested cotton. As a result, sawtooth cotton tends to have fewer foreign materials and less rigidity. However, the fiber length and uniformity may be slightly shorter, and the presence of short fibers is more common. The quality between bales is relatively consistent. Each machine can process around 500 kilograms at a time, and the mechanical action is quite intense, which can sometimes damage longer fibers. If not properly managed, this process may lead to an increase in neps and flyaways.
On the other hand, roller cotton is produced using a roller ginning system. In this method, the fibers are separated from the seeds by the rough surface of a roller, which adheres to the fibers and pulls them away through a rolling motion. Roller gins often come with specialized platooning and cooling systems. These machines produce smaller batches, typically around 50 kilograms per run, and the ginning process is gentler compared to the sawtooth method. This results in a higher level of impurities remaining in the cotton, but it also causes less damage to the fibers. The quality can vary more significantly between bales. Roller gins are particularly well-suited for processing long-staple cotton, but if the raw cotton is of lower quality, the amount of short fibers in the final product may increase.
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