The Chinese rose can be cut in all seasons, and the method of autumn is simple. It can be easily managed after entering the winter, and it can bloom in the same year after the branch is planted in the next year. From September to October, the temperature of 20Â°C to 25Â°C is the best time to cut the Chinese rose. The survival rate is as high as 95%.
For cutting and nursery, neutral sandy loam (pH 6.5 to 7) with good water and fertilizer conditions should be selected. If the soil quality is heavy, appropriate amount of fine sand can be incorporated during site preparation. If the soil has a large amount of sediment and the fertility is low, appropriate amount of organic fertilizer may be applied during site preparation. In combination with site preparation, 0.5 kg of methylisothionein is applied per acre to prevent underground pests from harming the seedlings. For self-cultivation, shallow mud pots or shallow wooden boxes may be used to select soils with loose soil, drainage, and ventilation, and no rhizobia, such as loose vegetable garden soil, 7 parts of boiled ash, or perlite. Before use, it is advisable to expose the above matrix to the cement ground, and then to disinfect the soil or sunlight to disinfect the bacteria in the soil, and then put it into pots or boxes for cutting.
Cutting selection and trimming
In the scion and nursery, select plants that grow robustly, have no pests and diseases, and have good quality as the mother plant. After the shrubs have been grown on the mother plant, the shoots with thick shoots, short internodes, and good lignification degree have been selected on the mother plant. . Leave 4 internodes (that is, 3 compound leaves) for the cuttings, 10 cm for the cuttings, 1 cm above the top incision, cut into planes on the upper cut, cut off from the lower part of the third compound leaf at the lower end, opposite the compound leaf The lower part is cut into a horse shape. The first and second compound leaves must develop robust and complete, and each compound leaf retains two small leaves, and the rest is trimmed together with the petiole. The cuts under the cuttings should be cut into the shape of a horse's ear at the base of the stems behind the eyes of the third compound leaf in order to make full use of favorable factors for rich storage of internode nutrients, and the cuttings can easily heal and survive.
Rooting before plugging
The soaking method uses No. 2 ABT rooting powder from 30ppm to 50ppm. The cuttings are bundled with 50 to 100 roots as 1 bale, and the bottom 2cm is immersed in the solution for 2 hours to 4 hours. After the removal, the seedbed is inserted and the depth is 3cm to 5cm.
Fast-twisting method, using 50% alcohol and naphthalene acetic acid or indole acid dubbed 500ppm solution, the lower 2 cm of the cuttings immersed in the solution for 2 seconds to 5 seconds until the liquid is slightly dry, immediately into the seedbed. In order to avoid rot of the cuttings due to bacterial invasion during rooting, it is also possible to add 2.5% kefon at the same time when preparing the rooting agent.
Rose cuts more with line interpolation. The cutting depth is 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length, which is generally as deep as the second bud. For cuttings, firstly use bamboo sticks that are equal to the thickness of the cuttings, and insert the rose cuttings to compaction. The cutting density is preferably that the leaves do not contact each other. When cutting, long cuttings and short cuttings should be cut separately to prevent different lengths and irregularities, affecting each other's light and growth. At the same time, the varieties should not be mixed, and the cuttings should be arranged in different sections, arranged in an orderly manner, and easy to manage. Immediately after insertion, spray with water with a fine eye, do not spray too quickly, so as not to contaminate the cuttings and cuttings out of the cuttings. Cover with plastic film to keep the temperature and humidity in the bed.
After the cuttings are fully watered, they are shaded and moistened with a small plastic shed. Spray water in the first 10 days to maintain a relatively humid environment; after 10 days, control the spray, see dry and then spray, and keep it dry. The cuttings can be rooted at 20Â°C to 25Â°C for 20 days to 35 days with a rooting rate of 95%. After the formation of new roots, topdressing should be timely watered to promote the balanced growth of the seedlings on the ground and underground. Management is divided into three stages, each stage from 7 days to 10 days. The first stage is the wet stage. At this time, avoid direct sunlight. Cover the curtains in time during sunny days. When the leaves are dry, use a small sprayer to spray the leaves to prevent the leaves from falling off. The second stage is the healing phase. At this point the wound began to heal, to prevent excessive water, otherwise it will cause the wound tissue rotten, to gradually make the basin soil dry, sooner or later can increase the time of weak sunlight, and promote photosynthesis. The third stage is the hair rooting stage, which can gradually increase the sun exposure time. When the basin soil is dry, it can be watered in an appropriate amount. If the old leaves do not fall off, new shoots have already emerged, indicating that the roots have been developed and the cutting seedlings have survived.
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