One common misconception is that heavy pruning should only be done in winter, while summer pruning is neglected. This can lead to an overgrown tree in summer and a cycle of unsightly scars in winter. In reality, winter pruning is just a continuation of summer pruning. If summer cuts are done properly, there's often little need for heavy winter pruning. Timely summer pruning helps save energy and promotes flower bud formation. It also stabilizes tree vigor, ensuring consistent yields and long-term productivity.
Another misunderstanding is the tendency to do heavy pruning but light branch pulling. This means delaying the opening of branch angles, which leads to dense canopies and poor light penetration. The correct approach is to start opening branch angles from the second year after planting. When branches reach 40% of their spacing, they should be pulled to 80–90 degrees to build a strong tree structure.
Some growers avoid thinning branches, leading to overcrowding and poor light conditions. This results in dying inner branches and uncontrolled growth on the outer parts. To fix this, excess large branches should be removed gradually, following the principle of "keeping the strong and removing the weak." Large branches with thick bases should be renewed, and if not possible, the tree structure must be reformed by adjusting angles and controlling growth.
Overly tall trees with short trunks are another issue. Trees that are too tall (3–5 years old) should have their heads pruned to keep the height between 3–3.5 meters. The trunk height should generally be 60–80 cm. If it's too low, it should be gradually raised by replacing lower branches with upper ones.
Tree construction that doesn't match row spacing is another problem. Planting too densely with large-crowned varieties causes canopy closure and poor growth. To prevent this, orchard design should consider variety characteristics and choose appropriate spacing. Proper shaping techniques should be used, and any signs of canopy issues should be addressed by encouraging new shoots and managing branch angles.
A common mistake is improper pruning cuts, especially when re-cutting large branches. Leaving too little base on the cut site can delay healing and reduce the chance of regrowth. For small branches, the cut should be close to the main branch, with the cut slightly higher on the side of the bud.
The practice of "heading back" excessively is another outdated technique. It was once used for sparse planting but is now inappropriate for dense orchards. Instead, focus on proper thinning, angle opening, and summer ring cutting to promote early fruiting and manage tree growth effectively.
Methods like "tiger mouth" and "wedge drawing" are outdated and harmful, especially for sensitive varieties like Fuji or Marshal. These techniques can cause infections and weaken branches. If these methods were used, new branches should be encouraged to replace damaged areas.
Finally, many neglect to disinfect pruning tools, leading to disease spread. After cutting diseased branches, tools should be sterilized immediately using fire or a solution. The cut surfaces should also be treated with fungicides to prevent infection and speed up healing.
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